Posted: August 15, 2016 in Polycarbonate
Multi-wall (also known as “twin wall”) polycarbonate is a very popular plastic product for use by the DIY community. This is because the product is inexpensive, readily available, and easy to work with. In fact, often the most “complicated” part of the job is convincing users how simple working with the product is! Whether its concerns about special hardware, installation, fabrication or estimating what product you need – these three tips will assist you in optimizing your multi-wall polycarbonate application.
1.) Don’t overestimate the product’s thickness
Most of the customers for multi-wall polycarbonate are people using it for “residential” applications such as a home greenhouse or awning. But for whatever reason people often ask for thick multi wall polycarbonate such as 10mm+ thickness. Thick multi-wall polycarbonate is designed for large, commercial greenhouse, and for home use is overkill. In fact, in almost all cases material thicker than 6mm is not required and in fact has two disadvantages.
The first is cost, as thicker polycarbonate will cost much more than the more readily accessible 6mm variety and secondly, thicker polycarbonate lets in less light. This means that your plants in your greenhouse get less light and could grow slower and your living space below your awning could be a bit darker. Combined with increased cost and less availability, why would you want that?
2.) No special hardware, and oversize holes by 1/8″
Ok, we cheated with two tips at once. But truth is we get asked all the time to supply special hardware for multi-wall polycarbonate. In the case of fasteners, there is none. Just use whatever screws or bolts you have lying around…3/16″, 1/2″…Whatever you have. Whatever hole you do drill, oversize it by 1/8″ to account for thermal expansion and to help avoid cracking of the material.
3.) Masked side up
When you get your polycarbonate sheet you will notice one side has a masking on it of plastic film. It is that side that has the UV protective coating. And it is that side you must have “face up” or “to the outside” as it will be hit with the light.
One of the things we are most concerned with is connecting people with the right material for their application. Often, people especially in the DIY community generally know what they’re looking for but there is some confusion when you get into specifics. “Black” UHMW is one of the major areas of confusion for people not very familiar with industrial plastics. UHMW polyethylene is probably the best known industrial plastic and has many excellent DIY applications. However, the plastic also comes in 10+ grades with three of those grades being ‘black’ in color!
The three types of black UHMW vary widely in price and application. In many cases, when we try to help someone with selecting a ‘black’ UHMW the response is “quote them all” – that doesn’t help us, given the extra work to quote, and it doesn’t do anything to help you either!
A quick introduction on the three types of “black” UHMW:
-Black-Reprocessed: Economy-grade UHMW with regrind (colored flecks) in the plastic. It is inferior to natural grade UHMW in every way except it does have better wear properties due to cross-linking in the manufacturing process and it is about 30% cheaper. Widely stocked at many plastic distributors.
-Black-Virgin: Natural UHMW (no regrind) with carbon black. The product is equivalent to natural (white) UHMW but has better UV resistance. It is often used in rugged outdoor applications such as on the underbelly of jet boats.
-Anti-Static: The rarest UHMW for people to refer to as “black” this UHMW has additives so that small materials do not stick, such as grains. It is almost never used in DIY applications as it is very specialized.
Understanding which “black” UHMW you are searching for is critical to ensure your application is successful.
Posted: July 12, 2016 in HDPE
Tags: HDPE, Hockey, plastic, puckboard
Have you ever tried to get a quote on “synthetic ice”? Most of the time that refers to white UHMW polyethylene and regrettably most folks don’t understand how expensive a sheet of that material is…Several hundred dollars for the required thickness in a 4′ x 10′ standard sheet size. This sometimes makes the hockey fan give up their idea prematurely because unless you want
The good news is for many “DIY” at home hockey applications a much less expensive material will do the trick. HDPE “puckboard” is literally named after the hockey puck – it is a type of plastic sheet used as hockey “boards”. That’s a purpose it can serve in your basement or home rink as well: puck board will take the power of hockey shots and not break. Most commonly it’s used as a platform to shoot pucks off of: protecting the ground and providing a smooth surface to shoot off of.
The plastic can be had for pretty cheap from a distributor that stocks it. You can expect to pay between $80-$120 for a 4′ x 8′ sheet, which is quite inexpensive as far as traditional “industrial” plastics go. The plastic is easily worked with home tools (drills, power saws). You do need to watch out for the fact that it is not UV-stable meaning if you leave it outside you will eventually get UV damage…It will crack and become brittle, no longer holding up to shots.
That said, if you’re a hockey fan and want a cost-effective plastic to use for anything short of skating on, puck board will serve you well.
Late spring has hit the northern hemisphere and in many places it’s warming up consistently now. For many parts of Canada and the U.S. “jet boating” is a seasonal pastime. Jet boats are wide, somewhat flat-bottomed boats designed to shoot across shallow creeks, even sometimes jetting from creek across land, to a creek on the other side. Needless to say, the hulls of these boats take an absolute beating!
That’s where industrial plastic comes in. UHMW polyethylene is used on the bottom of these boats to protect against impact and abrasion. UHMW tests as unbreakable according to ASTM D256 and is also very slick, helping the boat pass any obstacle. For the most part, the boat bottoms are flat perhaps with a slight curvature. The material used is typically 3/8″ or 1/2″ thick UHMW either black-reprocessed or black virgin. The virgin material is more expensive but has about 20% better properties in most respects. If you watch jet boating videos on the internet you almost always will see a black plastic on the bottom of the boat – that plastic is UHMW.
Our recommendation is to mechanically affix the UHMW using bolts or weld washers. UHMW is available from certain vendors with “adhesive” but we have only heard of poor results and this is not recommended!
If you’re looking for a quote on UHMW for your jet boat you can contact Redwood Plastics.
Remember that 1980’s TV “MacGuyver” where the show’s star was able to make ingenious solutions to problems using every day items such as string, paper clips and bottles? We recently came across a similar application on Youtube for a plastic bottle mousetrap. The items you need are pretty easy to get a hold of and most people probably already have all of them in their house right now:
- 2L plastic bottle
- (2) rubber bands
- (2) chopsticks
- (1) paper clip
- dry mouse bait
Other recommendations from the comment section were 1.) wear gloves (to cover the human scent of your hands) and 2.) screw the bottle onto a stable surface. We’ve never made this trap ourselves it just seemed like an interesting idea. It has the benefit of “catch and release” too if you don’t like how mice are killed in traditional snap traps. We’ve embedded the video below:
Posted: April 26, 2016 in Uncategorized
Tags: DIY, Industrial laminates, Micarta, phenolic
A plastic that really needs to be given more attention in the “DIY” community is Micarta CE, or its equivalents in the plastics industry. Micarta CE grade is the standard mechanical grade of a cotton-based industrial laminate. The plastic is essentially many layers of thin cotton soaked in plastic resin and then compressed under pressure. These plastics can take tremendous load, for example the ultimate compressive strength of CE grade industrial laminate is 37,000 PSI! It is also an excellent electrical insulator, handles temperatures up to 265 Fahrenheit, does not absorb water and is unaffected by all known oils, greases and synthetic fluids. Its only chemical weakness is to caustics.
All that talk about properties doesn’t connect the material with an application and we know you’re wondering – “what can we do with it?” You need to think mechanical, IE. load bearing, hard, and take impact. For example, we’ve sold it to customers who have sailboats and the mast sits in a sort of bearing (think a square, with a hole in the middle). The metal bearing may rust or be affected by chemicals but the CE grade laminate will not. For the same reasons in that the laminate will not rot or rust, we’ve had sailboat owners replace their hatches with Micarta CE. Amateur go-kart makers have used small pieces as brake pads and because of its strength and insulating properties it works well as a housing for electrical equipment. Spacers, bearing pads, housings, saw guides, all those types of applications are areas Micarta CE is often very suitable.
You do need to have some precautions in place when you work with the material. Ventilation is critical as is wearing a mast and eye protection. The dust generated is toxic and lubricating the cutting surface when doing any cutting or drilling is highly recommended. The material is very hard so diamond or carbide-tipped blades are recommended but not essential. Otherwise, the laminate actually machines quite well and is dimensionally stable. With the exception of dealing with the dust it’s similar to work with as wood, just stronger.
For more information on industrial laminates like Micarta CE, check out that section of our website here.